Life in the Village

As soon as we saw the blue and white buildings up on the hill, we knew we'd survived arrived at the Village of Life. Before we stopped there, we were taken through town to our accommodations - the Credit Union/Guesthouse. 



Main Street

As we settled into our rooms - where we would call home for the next 5 nights - we realized that real African initiation was about to begin. No more running water and no AC. Still in the lap of luxury, we did have an indoor bathroom and the pails of water were hauled up the stairs for us. Scarily... I didn't even mind not showering for those days. It's part of what I love about being in Africa - the stripping away of all the things that seem important; where water is a privilege, not an requirement.

A few minutes later, we stepped onto the Village of Life property for our "welcoming ceremony." We sat outside and talked with George Sr. and George Jr. about the plans for the week ahead. We presented them with a few gifts we had brought for them. The best part... we met some of the kids.

Scenes from the Village of Life:

                                 



Siamese Goats?
(not really)



 

One boy was particularly special for JD. Several months before we arrived in Ghana we asked George a favor. If he came across a boy with a particular name, we would do whatever necessary to rescue him. As part of an Interpol raid, this young guy was brought to the Village of Life. He was so full of life. I can't even imagine his spirit being squelched by a life on the lake. He had the cutest laugh.

It was the teen girls who really stole our hearts. Most of our time was spent with them learning about them and from them. Currently, they are learning trades - sewing or hairdressing. In many ways they are like typical teenage girls - unsure of how they look, wishing they had a mirror to look in, and craving love while trying to act strong. Unlike many teenagers, they have already been through horrific life circumstances. Each of these girls were brave enough to share her story with us. Stories of being taken from home and not remembering where home was. When asked about a birthday, heads hung in shame as the answer "I don't know" was quietly whispered. Many of the girls talked about working hard to please the master only to be beaten anyway. Some quietly spoke of being raped. All told of being rescued by George and learning about the love of Jesus at the Village of Life. I asked one when she was on the island if she felt God had forgotten about her. She told me she didn't even know about God until she came to the Village of Life. It broke my heart to think of all the kids still enslaved who don't know that there is a God who cares about every wound and every tear.

I enjoyed making the girls our priority as I'm sure the younger kids often get most of the attention. There was also one teen boy who I spent several evenings talking with. He called me "madam Tia." While I taught him some guitar chords, he tried to teach me to juggle and whistle with my thumbs. I was horrible at both.

One of the main focuses of our visit was the new school building. We were able to tour the existing classrooms, see the students and meet the teachers.

The first several hundred bricks for the new school had been made. The building footprint was staked out for the sod-cutting ceremony (or as we called it - groundbreaking).  The land was prayed for and blessed by a local priest. Using a pickax JD attempted to broke ground. Following the ceremony, the kids played drums and sang while a dance party broke out. I'm pretty sure I was the first one who joined in the dancing. It was hot and sweaty, but I know I was smiling and so were the kids. Meanwhile, JD who has pretty much vowed not to dance until Jesus comes back stayed toward the outside of the mosh pit.... but I'm betting she busted a little move.

One of the local dishes is fufu. It is made with boiled plantains and/or yams that are pounded into a pasty dough like substance. One night, we even got to take a turn making it and then try it. It tasted like a potato pancake, but the fish stew I had to dip it in grossed me out. But still... I tried it. Which was more than some people (Joshua). 

Another local dish is grasscutter, which is a giant rat. JD, ever the food connoisseur, expressed to our hosts that she wanted to try it. The next day for lunch we were served something different. Little fried pieces of meat. Immediately, we all wondered if it was grasscutter. After tentatively trying it and finding the meat really tasty we continued to eat. Joshua would not touch it -just the thought of it grossed him out. I tried to convince him that it was likely not grasscutter (as I couldn't imagine liking it if it was) but still he would not budge. Finally we got him to eat one of the tiniest bites. In the end, it turned out it was simply beef. Poor Josh was bummed he missed out on lunch.

In the afternoons, we were brought back to our rooms for some downtime. We used this time to explore the town a little. Josh and I quickly found a store to buy cold Coca Cola. We visted this vendor daily for our fix. Down the road, we also found some fresh bread, which we ate with peanut butter. Mmmm...

We also discovered a community behind the Credit Union. While waiting for our ride back to the Village of Life one afternoon, we engaged with many of the children. We took photos of them and gave them a new soccer ball. I'm not sure the parents were as impressed with the obruni (white people) as several were yelling at the children and came to drag them away.

Not much goes on at the Village of Life in the evenings. One night, the boys hung a bat net on the dorm as they had been particularly damaging. Within a few minutes, there were several bats caught in the net. We were inside eating when the commotion all started. First Josh went out to see what was going on. He came running back in to get the camera. Quickly, the rest of us finished eating and went outside to join in the entertainment of bat stoning and running when one fell to the ground. Front row seats to a Discovery channel special on bats.

On Sunday, we attended church and sat with our teen girls. One of the first things I noticed was the painting of Jesus behind the stage. Blood was coming out of his heart, but they covered it up with a wall clock. That wasn't even working. Just a little weird.

The church was divided into 4 sections and all the men sat in one section together. Each section stood and sang a song. At another point, we got into a line and danced around like in a conga line. JD continued her anti-dance vow and sat out. The service lasted about 2 hours and other than what the girls explained to us, we had no idea what was being said. Towards the end, the girls began to try and read their English bibles to us. It was then that I realized that while they spoke English fairly decently, they were not able to read it well. Another reminder that these girls still had much to overcome in order to break out from this cycle of poverty.



I loved the different colorful
scarves these older woman wore



Our last night arrived with a closing ceremony of sorts. Just the way we started, sitting outside in a circle with George. The kids came and gathered round, singing us a song. The girls then presented us all with  gift. The girls had made Joshua a shirt and placed a roll of fabric in my hand. They encouraged Joshua to try on his shirt immediately. They were delighted when it fit.

It wasn't until after the "ceremony" had ended and George had gone home that the girls asked us to try on our dresses. We hadn't even realized they had made us dresses. I think all of us were a little afraid to try them on. What if they didn't fit? As each piece was put on and fit, the girls errupted with squeals of delight. When all 3 of us were African-ly clad, a party broke out. We were amazed that they were able to create all of this in 4 days without even measuring us. I'm sure it was a huge boost to them in knowing their skills were improving.

For me... it was the best gift I could come home with. A gift of love from precious girls I had come to love.

The Road Less Traveled

With less than 1 hour of sleep, we were on our way to Kete Krachi at 2am. Leaving that early hopefully would ensure us ample time to reach the ferry and get on it. Without complications, the drive takes about 6 hours. Luckily... this time we had no complications. At least as far as time went.

This road is less traveled for a very good reason. Just outside the greater Accra area the road became a mine field. Giant speedbumps every mile, potholes that could swallow the entire van, and frequent military and police checkpoints. Our driver was amazing at this navigation, but there is still only so much he could do.

For me it was even worse, as somehow I got stuck in the back of the van and I get motion sick (I did take dramamine). Debra and Josh were sound asleep in the first 2 rows so I had nowhere to go. Even if I had room to lie down and sleep it would have made me too sick. So for 6 hours I tried to find a balance of getting a little bit of sleep sitting up and staying awake to look out the window. 

Well in time for the first ferry, we arrived at the lakeshore. Here we watched the morning market bustle about. Children in school uniforms getting breakfast. Other children doing chores and vendors opening up their shops.

 



Soon enough the ferry began to board. We were getting closer, but the ferry was filling up as well. Many large trucks with goods to transport and buses use the ferry to get across. But, we pulled into the 2nd to last spot. We were instructed to get out to go and pay for our tickets. I asked the lady how much and pointed to the van when I said 4 plus the driver. She told me to forget about the driver. We paid and got on board. A few minutes later our driver and the lady appear saying we didn't pay for the van. So I took care of that - but really, did she think we had a driver and not a vehicle!

 

Meanwhile a loud argument had broken out between a group of very strong looking men about who would get the last spot on the ferry. A truck tried to force it's way on, but it was too large. In the end a car was able to secure the spot.  



The ferry ride was pleasant and only about a half hour. We were very thankfully for the reprieve from the bumpy road. While JD and stayed inside the van trying to take advantage of the time to get a little sleep, Debra ventured outside where she glady took on the role of marriage broker for this young woman selling bread. At one point I heard her say to the young man in question that he couldn't marry her because she makes more money than him.







Joshua was playing Mindcraft and a teenage Ghanian was watching. Josh invited him into the van and taught him how to play.

 

All to quickly, we were back on the road. We couldn't have imagined it being worse than what we just came from, but it was. The next two hours were like being inside a pinball machine. But when we finally reached The Village of Life, it was all worth it.

The bad part... we had to endure it all again when we left.



African Slurpee



The vanilla was better



Ghana: Day 1 & 2 - Compassion Visits

Early Monday morning we finally arrive in Accra. We rush off the plane toward immigration, where we still end up last in line. When my turn comes, the officer was cordial. All the fingerprints on my right hand were taken and then he asked for the other hand. I smiled and asked, "Is this in case I come back without a hand or some fingers? It doesn't sound promising." The offiver smiled back and told me to enjoy my time in Ghana. From that moment on it was non-stop...

We got our luggage off the one conveyor belt to find it was wet from all the humidity and headed through customs. We had piled the bigger suitcases on 2 carts. Everyone on the first cart was waved through but I was stopped to check my luggage tickets against the luggage on the cart. Except my stuff was on the other cart. After a moment to explain, he waved me on. Phew.

Our driver was waiting as the flight arrived an hour later than he had expected. He wisked us to the van and loaded us up to head to the first Compassion Center where JD would finally meet Ato Sam.

Word of advice: Make time to go to the bathroom before heading out into the middle of Nowhere, Ghana. I did not and I regreted it as it was probably like 10 hours until we were able to use one. (and there weren't woods to go in either. Just saying)

As we drove, we took in our first sights of Ghana.

After about a two hour drive, we arrived at the Compassion Center where we were treated like royalty and a whole program was put on for us.

As we were entering they were announcing "They are here.
They are coming!"



JD and Ato Sam



 

Toward the end of the program the children began to creep up on the stage. Once Debra and I let one climb on our lap, we were instantly surrounded with kids. Meanwhile the staff tried to get them to sit back down so the program could continue.

Soon we were on our way to visit some of the homes of the children and present them with the gifts we had brought. Additionally, the center hosted a soccer match between Ato Sam's center and the twins center. When the festivities had concluded, we loaded up and went to dinner. At dinner, JD had a little more one on one time with Ato Sam before having to say goodbye.

 The next morning we headed to the first of two centers to visit. It was here we got a good look at how Compassion runs it's centers and the circuluum. We also were able to address many of the parents and be blessed in return by them.

The 2nd center of the day was where George and George are. This was one of my favorite experiences of the trip. I loved holding Kakra and seeing JD with Panyin. We learned that this center had only been in operation about 11 months. The difference from the first center was obvious. I know it will continue to improve with Compassion's assistance. 

The twins are 6 years old but both are closer to the size of 3 year olds. In fact, holding a 5 month old on Thanksgiving, I noted that he felt heavier than Kakra.



Panyin and Kakra



 In the beginning both of the boys were very shy. Panyin became more at ease first. I tried tickling Kakra. I tried seeing if he could snap his fingers. Nothing. Absolutely nothing. Several times he just turned his head and stared into my eyes like I was supposed to know exactly what he was saying with them.

Finally, when I pulled the Curious George monkeys out, both of their eyes lit up and smiles were aplenty after that.



The whole family



As a special treat to us, since we didn't end up staying in Cape Coast due to the arrival plans all changing, Samuel (the compassion visit coordinator) took us there for dinner. 



Elimina Castle





The first Coke



 After finishing dinner, we headed back to to the capital in order to connect with our Touch a Life contacts.

Ensue next adventure...

We hadn't booked a place to stay for the night and hadn't had time to buy a cell phone to get in contact with anyone. We were left with our driver who spoke English but understood it far less. He was unfamiliar with any of the hotels we mentioned so we went to Plan B - take us somewhere with internet.

Sometimes is wiser to set more parameters.

The first place the driver took us did not have internet, but the second did. I'm sure the man smelled out slight desperation at this time and overcharged us and slightly misled us, but we didn't have much choice. I am fairly certain that white people DO NOT stay where we were dropped off. Debra was kissed in the lobby and they told us we could leave our luggage in the lobby. Apparently, they thought we were rich and stupid.

Let's just say it was an interesting night, most of which was just a great imaginative buildup in our own minds. But there were some unidentified stains on the bed...

In the morning after many emails and phone calls, our whereabouts were located and we were gratefully rescued. I couldn't take another minute of the horrible soap opera (dubbed in English) playing in the lobby.

"Tell me you love me."

"What? I can't hear you."

"Say it louder."

"Say what?"

"Tell me you love me."

Gag me.

Now we began to prepare for the trip to Kete Krachi and what we would see and experience there.

Ghana - The Beginning

Like any mission trip, there were bound to be some problems... changes in plans and interesting adventures. It's just we expected them to be IN Africa - not the US.

Problems started when JD arrived at the airport to be told the ticket I paid for had been revoked for credit fraud and she would have to by a new ticket in order to board the plane.

Umm... WHAT!!!

Of course, she just pulled out her wallet and gave them the money in cash, cause it was just that easy. NOT! Time was running out and she in Portland was trying to get this taken care of as not going was not even an option. Meanwhile I was at the airport in Detroit trying to get things figured out as well.

Darn. I should have taken the Xanax already.

Amazingly, just in the nick of time and thankful for that running training, they were able to board the plane. And we thought the flight issues were out of the way...


Upon arriving in D.C. we learn that Debra's flight has been delayed due to a hydraulic part needing to be flown in. So Joshua, JD and I settle into the airport to wait and pray Debra makes it.




Just prior to boarding that night, Debra arrives. Now we are ready to get on our way. The airport is really empty this time of night and so we quietly board the plane. Everyone gets on and all the carry-on luggage is stored. Some people have already fallen asleep.

The dreaded announcement: Sorry, but we will be deboarding the plane as there is a problem with the hydraulic system. We will update you as soon as we can.

We all get off.

Flight postponed until 4pm the following day.

Vouchers in hand we all head down to catch the shuttle to our hotel. It's cold out and we are not dressed for this weather. We wait..... and wait...... and wait. Until there are only about 10 people left. The hotel shuttle came 2 times in 2 hours. While we waited we did make some friends with some very "friendly" Ghanian guys who all worked together. There is something about experiencing a common setback that brings people together.

Finally we arrive at the hotel only to discover that everyone who arrived before us still appeared to be in line. We walked down to the end, getting more frustrated and exhausted each minute. In an hour it seemed like we hadn't even moved.

The dreaded announcement: Sorry, folks, we are out of rooms. We will be taking you across the street to another hotel.

It is now about 2 a.m.

Joshua in the hotel lobby waiting for our rooms

By 3 a.m. we FINALLY were able to crawl into bed and sleep.

The next morning we worked on trying to communicate with our contacts in Ghana to rearrange the details and headed back to the airport. Praying we would leave this time.

At 5 p.m. on Sunday we finally took off and 10 hours later we landed in Ghana.


(to read JD's account of our trip visit here to read)

Happy Thanksgiving

After a few days of processing and finding my way back into life in the US, I find myself being so much more thankful for all the blessings I have and the ways I was blessed in Africa.

Stories and photos from Ghana will be appearing here shortly!